This a simple granny square motif that has a unique effect by changing one stitch. If you are experienced at making granny squares then this will be an easy switch for you. Even if you are not all that experienced with them, the pattern is quite easy and you can make an entire blanket in a short amount of time.
One important part of this type of block is that you want to change colors after every 2 rounds. It is not absolutely necessary, but the color change is what helps give it its unique look.
Supplies needed
My finished throw is six 8″ blocks wide and seven blocks long. The amount of yarn used is for that size, so if you choose to make it bigger or smaller, adjust the amounts accordingly. I used Red Heart Jumbo Super Saver for each color.
Size H crochet hook
Worsted weight yarn:
16 oz. light blue
11 oz. white
22 oz. navy blue
Scissors
Yarn needle
Stitches Used
Sl St – slip stitch
DC – double crochet
FPDTR – front post double-treble crochet – YO your hook 3 times. Insert hook into the space to the right of the center stitch of a group of three stitches TWO rounds below, and bring hook back through to the front on the left side of that same stitch. YO and pull hook back through your work to your starting position. YO and pull through 2 loops on the hook. YO and pull through 2 more loops on hook. YO and pull through 2 more loops on hook. YO and pull through remaining 2 loops on hook. If you need a visual aid on how to do this, see the small video clip below.
Once you get to round 5, you will be doing this stitch around double crochets and front post double-treble crochets from the round below. When doing this stitch to a previous FPDTR, you will be sliding your hook behind the stitch from right to left, YO and pull back through to starting position.
Attaching blocks
I did this throw as a join-as-you-go, as it is much faster, easier, and I believe helps with the look of the joining corners. If you make all of your motifs before joining, end each motif after round 6. You can add round 7 as you start joining them. It is not necessary, though, to do it this way. You may prefer to stitch your blocks together with a needle, or with a hook instead. If that is the case then you can complete each motif through Round 7, and leave a very long tail to stitch them together if you are using a yarn needle.
Making the Mosaic Granny Motif
FIRST MOTIF:
Round 1: With light blue, make a magic circle, leaving a decent sized tail for weaving and tightening later, and chain 6. 3 DC, ch 3, 3 DC, ch 3, 3 DC, ch 3, 2 DC and sl st in the 3rd chain of your beginning chain 6. You will have 4 groups of 3 dc and 4 ch 3 spaces.
Round 2: Sl st into the ch 3 space. Ch 6. (Each round from this point on will begin this way). 3 DC in same ch 3 space. Ch 1. *(3 DC , ch 3 , 3 DC) in next ch 3 space.* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. 2 DC in next ch 3 space and sl st into 3rd chain of beginning ch 6. Fasten off. You will have 4 corners of 3 DC, ch 3, 3 DC.
Round 3: Join white in any chain 3 corner space, ch 6, and 3 DC. Ch 1. *(DC, FPDTR, DC) in ch 1 space. Ch 1. (3 DC, ch 3, 3 DC) in next ch 3 space.* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. Ch 1. 2 DC in beginning ch 3 space and sl st into 3rd chain on beginning chain.
Round 4: Sl st into the chain 3 space. Follow Round 3, except that you will have two sets of DC, FPDTR, DC per side. At the end of this round, after you sl st into the beginning chain, fasten off.
Rounds 5 and 6: Join navy blue into any corner ch 3 space. Follow as with previous rounds. Round 5 should have 3 sets of DC,FPDTR,DC, and round 6 should have 4 sets. At the end of round 6, fasten off.
Round 7: Join light blue into the ch 3 space of any corner. Work as previous rounds, except that you will be doing 3 DC instead of a FPDTR in the middle. Fasten off.
I tend to weave in my loose ends as I go, so I don’t have the tedious task of doing them all later. Be sure to tighten your circle with your beginning tail, but do not tighten it so that it closes completely.
REMAINING MOTIFS:
When attaching to just one side: Make all remaining motifs the same up to round 7. On Round 7, you will complete the first side as usual, up to the first corner. 3 DC in the ch 3 space. Ch 1. With back sides facing, sl st into the corner ch 3 space of the motif you are attaching to, Ch 1. 3 DC into the same corner space your are currently working on. Sl st into the next ch 1 space of the block you are attaching to, then 3 DC in the ch 1 space you are currently working on. Continue this to the next corner. This corner will be the same as the other, 3 DC, ch 1, sl st into attaching ch 3 space, ch 1, remaining 3 DC in the corner you are working on. You can then continue round 7 as normal.
When attaching on two sides: follow as above until you reach your second corner. When you reach the corner at the end of attaching to your first side, 3 DC in your corner space, ch 1, sl st into the ch 3 space of the corner of your first attached block, then turn your work 90 degrees and sl st into the corner ch 3 space of the next motif you need to attach to. Ch 1, final 3 DC in same corner space of the motif you are working on, and continue to follow directions for attaching the side. Once you have attached both sides, you should have just one side left that you can finish off round 7 as normal.
If you are not used to this method of joining, you may want to put stitch markers into the corners before you start to join, just to make sure you are attaching to the correct corner space.
If you have any questions regarding this pattern, you can leave it in the comments, are you can contact me directly at jensyarncloset@gmail.com.
