The hardest part of making a graphic blanket is getting the design just right. The stitches you choose have to come out the correct size and make the image look just as you planned. So, you will always want your image graphed out before you even touch your yarn.
In the beginning, before I knew software even existed, I did this by drawing my image on tracing paper, and then tracing that image onto graph paper. Then I had to tape a whole lot of pieces of graph paper together to be able to see my design in full. This was extremely complicated and time consuming. For small simple projects, using graph paper can still work. For my more complicated projects, I use software. Personally, I really love using PC Stitch 11. Created for making cross-stitch designs, this works very well at transferring an image to a graph for you, and you can alter it in any way that you choose. It can still take a lot of work at making details just right, but it is still a simpler way to go. I have used the software for different types of blankets: single crocheted, afghan stitched with cross stitching, single crocheted with cross stitching, bobble stitched, corner to corner, and filet stitched.
Not all types of stitches will allow for the same type of graph, however. So part of your plan is deciding just what type is right for the style of blanket you want.
This blanket was single crocheted throughout, and then the image was cross-stitched on top of it. For this your are basically using the software for it’s intended purpose… as a cross-stitch pattern. One single crochet for each box in your graph.
I tend to crochet about 20 rows or so, put a stitch marker in the loop so it doesn’t unravel, and then cross stitch from the bottom up. It is much easier to stitch onto a blanket as you go than to wait until the entire blanket is crocheted. You CAN wait if you want, but you will be doing a lot more counting in the long run and could possibly end up with your design off-center.
I usually design these types of blankets with the gauge in mind of 3 stitches per inch (vertically and horizontally) for an H or I hook, and 4 stitches per inch for a G hook.
With a corner to corner (C2C) blanket, you still will follow the graph, but your graph has to be designed in much bigger, less detailed blocks. Although it depends on the size of your hook, I go with the basic idea that each C2C block is 1 inch x 1 inch; therefore, your graph should be designed at 1 square per inch. (Note: PC Stitch does not allow for 1 square per inch, so I design them at 2 per inch and make any needed adjustments to keep the image and ideal size intact.)
When reading your graph, you will start at the right hand bottom corner and work up diagonally.
Designing bobble stitched blankets are a bit more complicated and time consuming. For this Tree of Life blanket, I first transferred my image over to the software at about half of the size of my intended blanket. I then made any adjustments to make the branches and circle come out just the way I wanted. Then I opened a new blank graph… and started all over. Use one symbol or color to represent your single crochets and a different symbol or color to represent your bobbles. Block by block you will rebuild your pattern onto the blank graph, keeping in mind that every odd row is single crochet only, and that there is a single crochet between each bobble stitch.
The completed pattern to crochet this Tree of Life blanket can be found here: https://www.etsy.com/listing/793442355/tree-of-life-crocheted-blanket-pattern?ref=shop_home_active_15
The most complicated to design on the software is the filet stitch patterns. The reason for this is your graph in width is not the same gauge as your graph in height. For the width, I use every blank block to represent a chain space, a colored block to represent a double crochet of the image, and every bar across to represent a double crochet, whether it is part of the image or part of the filet. You will want your graph to be 1/2 of the size width-wise of your intended blanket, since each square AND bar count as a stitch. A general guide would be 2 squares per inch horizontally and 1 square per inch vertically.
As with the bobble designs, I find it easiest to transfer the image first as is, and then open a new graph to start over with adding each stitch one at a time with the correct sizing. It is also easiest to transfer images that are either a solid color or with minimal colors so there is less hassle in sharpening it up with clean lines for your finished design.
The possibilities are endless when you have the right tools. If you are an avid crocheter who enjoys giving image-specific gifts, it is well worth the money to invest in the software to aide you in the process.
